Matt Stirn from the R Lazy S Ranch, now with the Institute of Archaeology in Sheffield, England, led off the Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum’s Voices of the Valley winter programs on January 3, 2013 with a presentation on high elevation archaeology in the mountains of Wyoming. Starting with the research done in the 1970s and 1980s in Jackson Hole, Stirn moved to the extraordinary recent discoveries in the Wind River Mountains that have radically redefined the ways in which we now look at how prehistoric people lived in alpine and sub alpine zones — this research, done over the last ten years, points the way for what could well be in store for the Tetons.

Archeologist Matt Stirn Returns Due to Popular Demand

The Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum once again hosted Matt Stirn’s Voices of the Valley presentation on high elevation archaeology in the mountains of Wyoming at the history museum on Wednesday, January 23 at 7:00 p.m. “We were delighted with the exceptional turnout for Matt’s program on January 3, and were disappointed we weren’t in a position to accommodate everyone who showed up. Clearly there is an interest in the archeology of the valley, and we are moving to make it one of our priorities at the museum,” said Dr. Sharon Kahin, Executive Director.

The bully barn is done, and will be traveling to the museum on Tuesday morning, June 11^th. The barn should be leaving the high school about 8:00 am and arriving at the Museum at 225 North Cache Street around 9:00 a.m. Keep an eye out for a small building moving down the road! You are welcome to join us at the installation.

Bully Barn under construction

1.  Set of three (see below)
2.  And That’s the Way It Was in Jackson’s Hole, 2nd Edition by Jack Huyler
3.  Windows to the Past: Early Settlers in Jackson Hole by Bonnie Kreps

Set of three:

• Jackson Hole, Crossroads of the Western Fur Trade 1807-1840 by Merrill J. Mattes
• David E. Jackson: Field Captain of the Rocky Mountain Fur Trade by Vivian Linford Talbot
• Landmarks of the Rocky Mountain Fur Trade: Two one-day self-guided tours from Jackson, Wyoming by Pierce Olson 

For many summers the Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum has hosted the Doc MacLeod campfire tales at Jack Huyler’s Rocking H Ranch. Jack is not able to return from his winter home in California to his ranch this summer, so the Doc MacLeod Campfire Tales will not be held. We miss Jack, and wish him all the best.

This annual summer event began about 1976, and in 1983 was renamed to honor Doc MacLeod. Initially, a barbecue was held in his honor, and more recently, the event has evolved as a potluck dinner program. Storytellers shared their tales of one of Jackson’s early doctors, Don “Doc” MacLeod and his passions for outdoor pursuits. Last July, the event honored Jack and his new book Every Full Moon in August: Campfire Tales of Old Jackson Hole. The book is available at the Museum store at 225 N. Cache Street. Members receive a 15% discount on purchases.

“It’s a curious phenomenon of the great American West that if you toss a few men, horses and cattle together in close proximity, you’ll most likely have some sort of contest on your hands.” –Jackson Hole News, June 17, 1971.

Rodeo is as much a part of the history of Jackson Hole as the mountain man, dude rancher and every other character to enter and inhabit this valley. And it was the frontier spirit that fueled these contests of skill and will – making them a center piece of the town’s cultural heritage: “We’d bet a pair of silver spurs that “rodeoing” came to Jackson’s Hole on the day that the very first man trailed into the valley with all of his grub and worldly belongings diamond-hitched onto a packhorse.” quipped a 1971 article in the Jackson Hole News.

By 1911, before the incorporation of the town in1914, the valley folk had already put together a genuine rodeo with grounds that would soon have a grandstand and racetrack.

The “Jackson’s Hole Frontier Rodeo” was held annually during the first three days of September. Two Jackson residents, Bob Crisp and Howard Henrie, were the top rodeo hands in those days – Bob is seen below, taking a nose-dive off a horse that lived up to its name of “Crumbling Ann”.

“Rodeos have always been chock full of thrills.” he wrote; adding “ I never rode a bad horse, they always bucked me off !”

It was four early Jackson settlers that organized the informal contests that grew into the town’s legendary rodeo. All had business and ranch interests that motivated them to turn a casual bucking contest and get together into a real business proposition.

The four who organized the first rodeo: Jack Enyon, Pierce Cunningham, T. Lloyd and Roy Van Vleck.

“Spot, the famous bucking steer of Jackson Hole”

Longtime resident and settler Fern Nelson described the early rodeos as follows:

“Corrals were not used for saddling the bucking stock in these early rodeos. Buckers, either horses or steers, were roped in the big corral, dragged out in the middle of the arena and there blindfolded with a coat, sack or kerchief and saddled. The bronc rider mounted, got settled, then reached forward and pulled off the blindfold. They rode the bucking bulls and steers with a saddle. Old Spot, a bucking bull owned by the partners, was ridden very few times. He was famous all over the area where the partners took their show.”

Walt Spicer riding “Funeral Wagon.”

Clover Sturlin up!

Three other well-known characters were avid rodeo participants: Walt Spicer, Clover Sturlin and Bill Tanner.

Walt owned the garage that housed the first Conoco and Chevy dealership in the valley, now the Jackson Hole Playhouse.

Clover was the rodeo clown who started the “Town Posse Show” – later known as “The Shootout” – the star of the show for many years, he delighted tourists and visitors with his creation of the Shootout’s lead character “Clover the Killer.”

Bill Tanner riding “Carioca” at the Jackson Hole Frontier Days.

Belle Flanders

The more informal, rough and tumble setting of the first friendly contests entered a new phase of planning when Belle Flanders, John and Jess Wort’s sister, donated about 40 acres of land to the town for use as rodeo grounds.

Today, this original location is found south from Broadway to the Center for the Arts and west to the Elks Lodge. These early rodeos were held the first three days of September and, according to Howard Henrie, “ranked right up there with Cheyenne Frontier Days and the Pendleton Roundup,” ( 1971 JHN interview).

“Frontier Park” ca. 1930s

The judging station at Frontier Park ca. 1930s

In the 1930s, following a legal dispute, Belle Flanders’s heirs reclaimed the property and the town purchased the twenty-five acres the current rodeo grounds now occupy. The town added an imposing grandstand and a judge’s station and the grounds were named “Frontier Park.”

By 1918 the rodeo was experiencing a rough patch. This wasn’t for lack of interest, but during the First World War many young cowboys had gone to work for Uncle Sam. It was also a blow to the business side of things when one of the original fathers of the Jackson Rodeo, T. Lloyd, moved to Alaska. Outside interests began to draw away other partners away and when the boys came home, the new American Legion was tasked with running the show.

For 10 years the Legionnaires ran the rodeo, working hard and breaking even. When the responsibilities became too much, a rodeo company was hired to carry on the show. Over the years, several valley residents – all of whom had rodeo and ranching in their blood – owned and
operated the rodeo: it is to the credit of Walt Callahan, Bill Saunders, Hal Johnson, Bob McConaughy, Russ Moses and Philip Wilson that the rodeo was kept alive, a true celebration of a life and spirit that remains an important part of Jackson Hole history.

Early rodeo operator Walt Callahan (far left) with buddies on the craps table at the Silver Dollar Bar

Bill Saunders riding “Pecos Bill”

Hal Johnson judging in the arena at Trail Creek, assisted by Ginny Huidekoper

Bob McConaughy and family

Bob’s McConaughy’s father owned the R Lazy S ranch, after his death, Bob and his wife Claire (pictured with sunglasses) ran the ranch. His ranching experience and ability as a horse trainer greatly aided in his success running the rodeo and it was he who was responsible for adding bull riding as a key attraction.

Russ Moses and his son Gene

Russ was a partner to Bob McConaughy, thoroughly enjoying every aspect of the trade. A past president of the Jackson Hole Old Timers Rodeo – Russ competed in the sport for over 25 years.

Philip Wilson and family

These gents currently run the Jackson Hole Rodeo. Here is a little history on this rodeo family taken from their website:

“Rodeo runs three generations deep in the family, starting back to Chet Wheeldon riding broncs in the rodeo before it was moved to Wilson. Uncles Chet and Chancy continued in their father’s footsteps riding bareback and saddle bronc horses. In 1976 Chancy earned a spot among the top fifteen saddle bronc riders in the world and a chance to compete in the super bowl of rodeo, the NFR. The Wilson boys and cousins followed as well: Bodee, Brandon, Shawn and Jason riding broncs while Buskin and Cody took the more dangerous route bull riding. Buskin finished ranked as high as 26th in the world bull riding standings. Not to leave the girls out, Karissa and Sadee barrel raced professionally winning several trophy saddles along the way. Philip meanwhile stuck to the business side of rodeo and worked as the director of the Wyoming High School Rodeo Association for twelve years, serving five as president and chairman. Phil now spends much of his time with the Wyoming Cowboy Church bringing the word of God to cowboys. The family still competes at the roping event at the Jackson Hole Rodeo.”

-http://jhrodeo.com

And here is a link to the Rodeo’s Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Jackson-Hole-Rodeo/260922872003?fref=ts

The Jackson Hole Rodeo still draws the crowds and is a beloved part of our valley’s summer season – we hope you’ve enjoyed the show!

Record Shiras moose, elk and mule deer mounts

Hunting camp

Homestead barn

Celebrating a Century in Jackson Hole

For thousands of years, Elk herds migrated through Jackson Hole on their way to winter ranges in the Red Desert, Green River drainage, Big Horn Basin and Teton Valley.  As settlements in these areas expanded in the late 1800’s, the traditional elk feeding grounds were replaced with cultivated fields and pastures. Their migration routes were disrupted by wire fences and wholesale slaughter from indiscriminant hunting.  Hemmed in on all sides, the elk gradually ceased to migrate beyond Jackson Hole.

In harsh winters, elk died in huge numbers.  Following several mild winters, the herd reached an estimated 50,000 animals before the harsh winter of 1889-1890.  That winter, it was reported as many as 20,000 elk died.

After three hard winters between 1909 and 1911 there were less than 10,000 elk left in Jackson Hole. The winter of 1909 was particularly devastating.  The winter began with heavy snow that drove more than the usual number of elk out of the high country.  Wet snow turned to rain which then froze making it nearly impossible for the elk to reach food.  The elk invaded ranches, haystacks and the not yet incorporated town of Jackson.  They roamed through the streets and residents’ yards.  They died everywhere.  One resident noted in the spring of 1909 that it was possible to walk at least two miles stepping on elk carcasses without ever putting a foot on the ground.

Historian John Daugherty speaking about the settlers relationship to the elk.

Local Jackson Hole settlers witnessing the carnage in 1909 collected $600 ($15,000 in today’s dollars) to buy hay.  It was the first community effort to feed the elk. Five districts were established in Jackson Hole with a responsible rancher in charge of each to feed the elk.  The settlers also petitioned the State of Wyoming for additional funds which were granted in 1910 in the amount of $5,000.  In the meantime, D.C. Nowlin, Game Warden, bought about 400 tons of hay which were distributed to the five districts which stretched 10 miles north of Jackson and 10 miles south. While feeding continued, the available hay was insufficient for the size of the herd.

The efforts of S.N. Leek are widely credited with the actual establishment of the Elk Refuge in 1912. Leek set up a homestead in South Park in 1891 and married Etta Wilson.  With few employment opportunities at that time, he became a hunting guide.  One of his clients was George Eastman, founder of Eastman Kodak, who gave Leek a Kodak view camera during one of Eastman’s many hunting trips in the valley.

Leek took extensive glass-plate photos of starving and dead elk primarily in the South Park area.  He incorporated these images into articles which he submitted to newspapers and magazines to publicize the plight of the valley’s elk. He also embarked on a lecture series around the country to personally emphasize the need for action. He was billed “The Father of the Elk” on the Orpheum Circuit, a chain of vaudeville and movie theaters where he lectured.

Leek’s writings, photographs and lectures depicting the demise of Jackson Hole elk attracted state and national sympathy and resulted in support from the State of Wyoming, the U.S. Congress and other conservation groups to feed the elk and establish the National Elk Refuge.

• On February 17, 1911, the Wyoming Legislature passed a Memorial requesting the U.S. Congress to cooperate with the State in preserving the elk.
• On March 4, 1911, Congress appropriated $20,000 “to be made available immediately for feeding and protecting the elk in Jackson Hole.”
• On August 10, 1912, Congress appropriated $45,000 and decreed the creation of a National Elk Refuge.  The Government incorporated 1,000 acres of public land and 1,760 acres of purchased land along Flat Creek to constitute the Refuge.  D. C. Nowlin became the first Refuge Manager.

Ultimately, 34 private homesteads were acquired, including the property of John Holland and John Carnes who were the first homesteaders in the valley in 1884. Robert Miller, the third homesteader in the valley, sold his original homestead plus acreage he acquired over time to the Refuge in 1914, a total of 1240 acres.  The Miller House still sits on the Refuge and is open to the public. It has been furnished to look as it might have during the Millers’ time.

In 1925 the Isaac Walton League of America purchased 1,760 of private land for $36,000 and this addition was accepted by Congress as part of the Refuge in 1927.  An Act of Congress in 1935 provided 6 million dollars (over 80 million in today’s dollars) for the acquisition of land for wildlife throughout the U.S. A portion of these funds were used to acquire an additional 14,000 acres and negotiations began to acquire just over 3,000 acres from J.D. Rockefeller’s Snake River Land Company, which also helped to start Grand Teton National Park.  President Roosevelt’s Executive Orders in 1936 and 1937 added 3,165 acres and 618 acres of public land, respectively, to the Refuge.  These acquisitions brought the total Refuge to its current size of about 25,000 acres.

Today, the Refuge is a sanctuary for many other animals including trumpeter swans, geese and ducks.

Although activities like feeding wild animals and making them into pets have gone by the wayside, people are still passionate about the controversial act of continuing to feed the elk of Jackson Hole. Sleigh rides, hunting and collecting antlers are also considered a benefit and commodity on the Elk Refuge today, mixing business with conservation interests.

A 2009 New York Times article “Debate Rages Over Feeding Elk” summed up the conundrum well:

…[it's] over the science, emotion and economics of protecting these magnificent animals and the landscape they inhabit. At the center is a critical question: Did human kindness backfire, setting the elk up for disaster?

Feeding them could be the death of the elk if disease hits the herd while living on the refuge in such close quarters. But after a century of training them to be fed by people, disaster potentially looms if the feeding is stopped.

Despite the controversy, the elk and the refuge are integral parts of the community. In the spring, annually shed antlers are collected by local boy scouts on the refuge and sold at the Elk Antler auction in downtown Jackson. Antlers have long been used as decorative objects, including one of Jackson’s most famous landmarks, the Town Square Antler Arches. Elk are so much a part of the community’s fabric now that there is a whole weekend, known as ElkFest, devoted to them in May every year. Read about the 2012 ElkFest from the Jackson Hole News and Guide.

The refuge offers a unique opportunity to have quick access to amazing wildlife experiences like sleigh rides in the winter with the elk, hunting elk and bison in the fall to thin out the herds in an effort to keep disease at bay, and a number of other interactions with the animals.

Images selected and text written by Steve Morriss, fabulous Friend of the Museum.

Special thanks to the American Heritage Center for allowing the use of images from the Stephen N. Leek Collection. Click here to see more from that collection. All other photos and documents are from the collection of the Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum.

Playing in front of the Miller House, downtown Jackson.

Winter Carnival is one of the biggest events in Jackson each January and the highlight is the International Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race.  The event starts on the Town Square and is the longest dog sled race in the lower 48 states, winding through Wyoming and ending in Park City, Utah.   The race was founded by veteran Iditarod musher, Frank Teasley, in 1996.

Dog sleds and racing have a long and rich tradition in Jackson Hole and we thought it might be appropriate to review some of the tales that have been told.  Much of this material was obtained through oral histories at the Jackson Hole Historical Society & Museum and an article entitled Dogs of the North by Brad Eastman that appeared  in the Winter / Spring edition of Teton Magazine in 1973.

Dog and Man

Dogs were the first animal domesticated by man, probably 15,000 to 20,000 years ago.  The earliest archeological evidence of dog harnesses was found in Canada and dates to 1000 AD, although dog sled use from Siberia across the Bering Straits into Alaska and Canada is thought to be much older than that.

Use of dog sleds was mentioned in Arabian literature in the 10^th century and was observed by Marco Polo during his Asian travels in the 13^th century.   Early British and French colonialists noted the Native American use of dog sleds and referred to them as Indian dog trains.  The French Canadians quickly adopted dog sleds for carrying provisions in the northern quest for fur.  Dogs were referred to as a poor man’s horse by the French.  When the Russians made contact with the peoples of the Bering Straits in the early 1700’s, they embraced the use of dog sleds to expand fur trade, and improved the native design to make larger sleds with handle bars.

Early Dog Sleds in the Valley

The harsh winters of Jackson Hole provided an environment ideal for dog sled use by early settlers. In addition to hauling supplies, dog sleds were frequently used for hauling mail. Securing a postal route was a good way to assure some cash income and the average weight of mail was a good match for a dog sled team. The Postal authorities required residents to carry their own mail initially to prove the route and assure that:

“Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds.”

George Lamb settled in Jackson Hole in 1914 and homesteaded south of Astoria Hot Springs (it was Counts Hot Springs at that time).  He eventually became a builder and along with Charlie Fox built the Chapel of the Transfiguration in Moose.  In the early days, George and other nearby homesteaders were successful in securing a postal route out of the Hoback area.  George did the winter routes and put together a dog sled team.  He got a pure bred white collie lead dog from Tom Sewell. Sewell acquired the dog to herd cattle, but was so disgusted with the dog’s performance, he was ready to kill it.

Lamb made weekly trips delivering the mail in the Jackson area which included a stop at Geraldine Lucas’s place south of Jenny Lake.  Geraldine settled in Jackson Hole in 1912 and was the first local woman to climb the Grand.   Her son was a Commander in the US Coast Guard and while he was stationed in Alaska in the early 1920’s, he sent her a team of Alaskan malamute sled dogs, a sled, an Alaskan parka and boots to make it easier for her to enjoy winter social life with her Jenny Lake neighbors.  Geraldine frequently took her dog sled team to the Square G ranch to visit her friend Lida Gabbey.   Her dog sled is still on exhibit at Menor’s Ferry in Moose.

On one of George’s trips, Geraldine offered a malamute named “Lum”  to George for his team, which according to his son Tom, George reluctantly took.  George’s first outing with the new dog came on a 40 below zero day.  He hooked him up with the rest of the team in front of Mercill’s store and gave the team an “all right”.  The malamute didn’t know what to do and the rest of the team dragged him on his belly all the way to Flat Creek Bridge.

After many other mishaps, the dog was finally well enough trained to carry significant weight.

Slim Lawrence, cofounder or the Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum, lived on the AMK ranch on the north end of Jackson Lake with wife Verba Lawrence. Slim used a dog sled to carry the mail from Moran to the AMK in the 1930s.   After Slim noticed that some dogs put their paws in their mouths to melt the ice,   Verba made canvas booties for them so their long leg fur didn’t collect snow.  Verba cared very well for her dogs. After her dog Cap was injured one winter, he became the only dog to ride in the sled instead of pulling it.

Earl Radmall used a bulldog mix to pull his mail sled north of Moose in the 1930’s.  Earl used snow shoes to walk ahead of the sled and break trail for the dog.  On the return trip, the dog went first on the broken trail.

Neil Rafferty, who managed Snow King Resort had nine Irish setters that he used as dog teams when he lived in Moran in the 1930s.

Jack Huyler had a dog team that he used to get mail and supplies between Wilson and his Rocking H Ranch.  Jack pointed out in his book and That’s the Way it Was in Jackson’s Hole, that it was only in the movies that mushers stood on the back of the sled shouting “Mush” ,“Gee” and “Haw” .  The musher ran behind the sled holding on to the handlebars to control the sled and to lighten the load.  The musher would only jump onto the runners to catch his breath or to ride down hill.    As Jack pointed out, there was no significant slope between Wilson and the Rocking H ranch, and presumably not much riding on the runners.

Dog Sled Racing in Jackson Hole

The first “official” sled dog race with a written set of rules was the All-Alaska Sweepstakes, which first took place Nome Alaska in 1908. The first sled dog race outside Alaska or the Yukon was the American Dog Derby in 1917 in Ashton, Idaho. The Union Pacific Railroad spur between Ashton and Victor, Idaho was completed in 1912, but the route was not snow plowed in the winter.   By 1917 a thriving dogsled business had been created in Ashton for delivery of supplies and mail in the region.  Sixteen teams registered for the 55-mile race from West Yellowstone to Ashton including two from Harriman’s Railroad Ranch.  The race became an annual event and was tremendously popular in the 1920s.  Prize money grew to $1,000, worth about $13,000 today, and the race was run through the 1950s.  Interest waned in the 1960s and the race was discontinued.  It was revived in 1993 and continues to grow in popularity.

In 1932, sled dog racing was a demonstration sport at the 1932 Winter Olympics in Lake Placid, New York, but was not included in future games.

In the late 20’s after George Lamb had moved his family into the town, George was challenged to a dog sled race by Frank Van Lewen.  Frank had a team of five Irish setters and George used a two dog team, a German Shepard and a black Lab.   George’s sled was borrowed from his six year old son, Tom.  It was a four- mile race which George won because Frank’s Irish setters refused to come back into town after reaching the turnaround point.

In 1932, perhaps inspired by the Lake Placid Winter Olympics, Jackson hosted its first Winter Sports Carnival.  A thirty- mile sled dog race was a featured event.   Unfortunately, bad weather prevented visitors from getting over the pass and only five teams participated.  Ted Geelan’s team won the race.

The following year the Carnival became the “Second Annual Winter Sports Carnival and Dog Derby” with a fourteen – mile race fetching a $300 first prize, $200 for second and $100 for third,  a total purse well over $10,000 today.   There were also races for boys and girls.

Interest in dog sled racing waned over time.  In 1971, the International Sled Dog Racing Association sponsored a dog sled competition in Teton Village.  George Sweet and the Jackson Dog Sled Club were the local coordinators for the twelve- mile race.  Festivities also included a children’s one-dog, half- mile race.  The race was an effort to revive the sport in Jackson and promote dog sled trips into the Teton back country.

In the mid-1990s, the Governor of Wyoming approached Frank Teasley about the concept of  an “Iditarod of Wyoming”.  Teasley is a veteran of eight Alaska Iditarods,  finishing sixth in 1991 and winning awards for the best cared for team and most improved team.   Frank also cofounded the Jackson Hole Iditarod Sled Dog Tours, which still operates out of Granite Hot Springs with the help of 170 Alaskan racing sled dogs.  Frank organized the first Stage Stop Race in 1996. It continues on today as one of the most exciting events to draw people out into the frigid temperatures each January.

Special thanks to Steve Morriss, wonderful member of our Board of Directors, for writing the text and selecting the photographs for “Sled Dog Tales,” and many other exhibits as well.